With graduate fashion season underway, design reporter Alice Morby has picked the six best collections from University of Westminster‘s catwalk, including garments branded with beer logos and painterly dresses.
This year’s Westminster show took place at the university’s central London campus on Tuesday night and saw 15 undergraduate students each present their final collections.
The designers participating in the show were chosen by a panel of judges, which included designer Cozette McCreery, Natasha Booth from Fashion East, menswear journalist Charlie Porter and fashion stylist and consultant Julian Ganio.
Collections varied from feminine, layered dresses to eccentric sportswear-inspired jackets, with course leader Andrew Groves, describing this year’s graduates as “diverse and eclectic”.
“This year’s graduates have shown a diverse and eclectic range of influences which has led to a variety of exceptionally creative final runway collections,” he said.
“The time the students have spent with a range of international design houses during the course has been a truly enriching and rewarding experience for them. However, they remain fiercely focussed on their very personal vision of where they see fashion’s future lying.”
Here’s Dezeen’s pick of the top six:
Determan honed in on function and “anti-fashion” for her final collection, which is made up of utilitarian-style looks crafted from layers of a waterproof industrial material named Tyvek and transparent nylon. Silhouettes were based on over-clothes, chemical coveralls and flotation devices, and feature modular elements and prints illustrating how to wear the garment.
Jasper McGilvray wanted his final collection to blur boundaries between masculinity and femininity, while being both entertaining and thought provoking. Typically “girly” aspects clash with the designer’s musings on north-of-England masculinity, such as sport and pub culture – resulting in glittery garments emblazoned with beer brand logos.
Una Hayde’s delicate collection was inspired by the artworks of Egon Schiele, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec and Robert Motherwell. Fabrics printed with swashes of colour were layered and draped on the stand to create asymmetric dresses with a painterly quality.
Yan Yan Tao
Yan Yan Tao’s menswear collection drew upon her Chinese heritage and features a material palette of natural fabrics in a mainly monochrome colour scheme. She cites disparate influences for the collection – from Hong Kong gangster movies to 1950s factory worker uniforms.
Richardson, who was awarded British Fashion Council sponsorship this year, combined 60s silhouettes with and 70s’ “domestic consumerism” – resulting in a collection of colourful womenswear pieces featuring fabrics printed with catalogue pages.
Ben Duncan’s collection is intended for both men and women, with the designer’s self-proclaimed “internal apocalypse” inspiring the collaged and clashing colours, prints and materials.